Discover in this article how Portuguese traders and missionaries played a significant role in shaping the Thai culinary landscape. From introducing new ingredients like tomatoes, potatoes, and chilies to influencing cooking techniques and dessert-making traditions, their cultural exchange left an indelible mark on Thai gastronomy.
Learn about the surprising Portuguese origins of dishes like green curry and som tam, and how Thai-style iced tea became a refreshing staple, all thanks to the Portuguese influence.
Meet the dedicated artisans and bakers who strive to preserve ancient recipes, keeping alive the flavors and traditions that have stood the test of time as we delve into the realm of Thai sweets and their Portuguese-inspired roots.
Lusithai Reena is also dedicated to celebrate the unique culinary heritage born out of centuries-old cultural exchange so we are remembering this remarkable story of how two distant lands came together to create a culinary fusion that continues to delight food enthusiasts around the world. From the bustling streets of Bangkok to the historic neighborhoods surrounding the Santa Cruz Church, we’ll uncover in this article the traces of Portugal’s culinary legacy that still thrive today.
Many of the ingredients and culinary traditions we associate with Thai cuisine are relatively recent additions, inspired by the encounters with Portuguese traders and missionaries who ventured into Thailand during the 16th century. This exchange of produce and ideas, spanning over 500 years, had a profound and lasting impact on Thai food. It substantially shaped and defined the cuisine we now recognize and relish.
500 year old connection
In 1511, the Portuguese made history as the first Europeans to set foot in Thailand, arriving at the former royal capital of Ayuthaya. They quickly established friendly relations with King Ramathibodi II’s court and seized the opportunity to introduce the captivating new products from the Americas to the Thai market. This marked the beginning of a transformative era, as Thailand witnessed the arrival of numerous ingredients that would become essential elements of its cuisine.
Tomatoes, potatoes, corn, lettuce, cabbage, chilies, papaya, custard apples, guava, pineapples, pumpkins, sweet potatoes, cashews, peanuts, and tobacco were among the remarkable products introduced by the Portuguese. Over time, these ingredients became so deeply integrated into Thai culinary traditions that their origins faded from memory, and few Thais today are aware that beloved staples like chilies actually originated elsewhere.
Furthermore, the Portuguese played a pivotal role in facilitating the exchange of goods across Asia. They brought coveted products from various regions, including cinnamon from Sri Lanka, nutmeg and cloves from Indonesia.
Among the notable examples of this inter-Asian commerce was the introduction of a humble leaf called “te“ in an obscure southern Chinese dialect, known to the world as tea. There are still many discussions between pears but in general its generally considered by the relevant academia that the Portuguese brought tea from China and introduced it not only to Thailand but also to many other parts of Asia. Additionally, they played a significant role in popularizing tea in Europe.
Thanks to the Portuguese explorers and traders, a vast array of ingredients from the Americas and other parts of Asia found their way to Thailand, forever altering its culinary landscape and contributing to the vibrant cuisine celebrated today.
Cooking techniques & new deserts
In addition to introducing a diverse range of ingredients, the Portuguese left a lasting impact on Thai cooking techniques. Their influence is particularly evident in the realm of khanom, or Thai sweets.
Thai history credits a significant portion of the Portuguese influence on Thai desserts to a remarkable individual named Marie Guimar (Maria Guyomar de Pinha) Â She was the mixed-race Portuguese wife of Constantine Phaulkon, a Greek explorer and esteemed minister serving King Narai.
Marie Guimar held considerable sway over the royal kitchen, and her introduction of baking techniques and the incorporation of ingredients like egg yolks and flour—unfamiliar to Thai cuisine but integral to Portuguese dessert-making—had a profound effect on Thai sweets, a legacy still observable today.
One notable example highlighting the Portuguese influence on Thai desserts is the prevalence of desserts bearing the Thai word for gold, “thong,” which references the yellow or orange hues achieved through the generous use of egg yolks.
These desserts include thong ek, thong yawt, thong yip, and foy thong, all of which are variations of a Portuguese dessert family known as “ovos moles.” Despite more than half a century passing since their introduction, many of these sweets retain a similar form to their Portuguese counterparts still enjoyed in Portugal today.
The Thai effort to honour Portuguese heritage
Lusithai had the opportunity to delve deeper into the production and origins of these desserts, so we visited the factory of Kanomthai Kao Peenong, the largest Thai sweet producer in the country.
During our factory tour, I had the privilege of being guided by Arin Pipattawatchai, the head of quality control at Kao Peenong and an expert in the art of crafting Thai sweets. She revealed that all of Kao Peenong’s sweets are meticulously handmade, preserving the same traditional methods introduced by the Portuguese almost five centuries ago. In the case of the Portuguese-influenced thong sweets, the process typically involves immersing duck-egg yolks, along with various other ingredients, into gently simmering syrup.
Pipattawatchai explains, “In the past, eggs were primarily used as part of dinner dishes for Thai people—they weren’t commonly associated with sweets. This concept of using eggs in desserts was brought over by the Portuguese.”Â
We observed the production of thong yawt, where a thick paste made from duck eggs, coconut milk, and jasmine-scented flour is dropped into boiling syrup. The result is a delightful creation: firm, vibrant yellow balls that are both sweet and fragrant.
The process for thong yip follows a similar pattern, with the still-warm golden mixture being pressed into small ceramic bowls to acquire their delicate, flower-like shape.
However, the most fascinating process of all lies in the creation of foy thong. In this method, egg yolks are gently streamed into simmering syrup through a fine sieve, producing delicate, golden “noodles” of egg yolk that are truly captivating.
Witnessing these time-honored techniques and the expertise involved in crafting each sweet was a testament to the enduring legacy of the Portuguese influence on Thai desserts. The passion and dedication demonstrated by the artisans at Kao Peenong highlighted the rich cultural exchange that has shaped Thai culinary traditions over the centuries.
Another remarkable illustration of the Portuguese influence on Thai sweets can be discovered in the vicinity of the Santa Cruz Church, nestled alongside the Chao Phraya River in Thonburi.
This neighborhood, originally assigned to Portuguese and French traders during the relocation of Thailand’s capital from Ayutthaya to Thonburi, is renowned for khanom farang kutii jiin, a cake with Portuguese origins.
The cake itself is a simple concoction of duck eggs, sugar, and flour. Interestingly, the preparation method involves an improvised baking technique.
Due to the absence of ovens during the Ayutthaya era, the locals ingeniously mimic the oven’s effect by utilizing a bottom layer of heated gravel and a top layer of hot coals. This creative approach successfully emulates the baking process, allowing the cake to be cooked to perfection.
The neighborhood surrounding the Santa Cruz Church stands as a testament to the historical exchange between the Portuguese and the Thai people.
It serves as a reminder of the cultural interplay that shaped Thai culinary traditions, as Portuguese traders and their culinary techniques left an indelible mark on the development of Thai sweets.
Â
The centenary Siam-Portuguese bakery
In our quest for further knowledge about this distinctive sweet, we embark on a visit to Thanusingh, a cherished family bakery that has dedicated itself to crafting khanom farang kutii jiin for over two centuries. Nestled in the shadow of Santa Cruz Church, this bakery holds a rich history deeply intertwined with the Portuguese influence in Thailand.
Pong, a fifth-generation baker of mixed European and Japanese heritage, is among the few individuals in Thailand who continue to produce this traditional dessert, and he takes great pride in preserving its original recipe and methods. As we engage in conversation, Pong shares fascinating insights into the enduring nature of khanom farang kutii jiin.
He highlights the immediate recognition the cakes elicit from Portuguese tourists who visit the bakery. It is a testament to the authenticity and faithfulness with which the recipe has been upheld throughout the centuries. Pong emphasizes that despite the passage of time, the sweet has undergone minimal changes, steadfastly retaining its essence and character.
Visiting Thanusingh and conversing with Pong illuminates the unwavering commitment to heritage and tradition in the realm of Thai sweets. The continuation of this remarkable dessert, treasured by locals and recognized by Portuguese visitors, serves as a living connection to the enduring influence of Portuguese culinary practices on Thai culture.
The process of making khanom farang kutii jiin involves specific steps to achieve the desired result. Duck eggs and sugar are beaten together vigorously at a high speed until they reach a slightly stiff and peaked consistency. In the past, this labor-intensive task was accomplished by hand using an improvised pulley system that rotated a wooden paddle. However, in modern times, electric blenders have taken over this role, making the process more efficient.
Once the eggs and sugar are appropriately mixed, flour is carefully folded into the mixture, ensuring a uniform incorporation. The resulting batter is then poured into small, handcrafted metal trays, which are used for baking. To replicate the original baking method, a modern, custom-made oven is employed. This oven recreates the effect of the traditional technique, which involved a bed of heated gravel topped with hot coals. This combination of heat sources contributes to the proper cooking of the cakes.
As our conversation with Khun Pong continues – “khun” means Mr. – he sheds light on the Santa Cruz Church area’s reputation for hosting other dishes that are highly likely of Portuguese origin.
One such dish is a roasted calf’s leg infused with dried spices, a tantalizing culinary creation that showcases the Portuguese influence. Additionally, there is a robust vegetable stew, reminiscent of the Portuguese cozido (cozido à Portuguesa) which has become a traditional fare primarily enjoyed during Catholic festivals in the present day.
The mention of these dishes underscores the broader culinary heritage born out of the centuries-old cultural exchange between Portugal and Thailand. It is a unique fusion that has thrived over time, contributing to the rich tapestry of Thai cooking. However, there is also a sense of concern regarding the potential decline of this culinary heritage. The passing years pose a threat to the preservation of these distinct Portuguese-inspired dishes, risking their disappearance from mainstream Thai cuisine.
The cultural exchange between Portugal and Thailand has gifted the Thai culinary landscape with a wealth of flavors, techniques, and dishes. It is an invaluable heritage that deserves recognition and appreciation. Efforts to safeguard and celebrate this unique culinary legacy are vital to ensure its continued existence for future generations to savor and cherish.
Through Portuguese traders and missionaries, Thailand gained access to a treasure trove of flavors and culinary traditions from around the world. The introduction of ingredients like tomatoes, potatoes, chilies, and spices, as well as the influence on cooking methods and dessert-making techniques, shaped Thai cuisine in profound ways.
From the bustling streets of Bangkok to the historic neighborhoods surrounding the Santa Cruz Church, traces of this culinary heritage can still be found. Local bakeries, like Thanusingh, and dedicated artisans like Khun Pong, strive to preserve the authentic recipes and traditional methods, allowing us to savor the flavors of the past.
However, as time passes, there is a need to ensure the continued recognition and preservation of this unique culinary heritage. Efforts to document and promote the Portuguese influence on Thai cuisine can help raise awareness and appreciation among both locals and visitors.
Let us celebrate the centuries-old cultural exchange between Portugal and Thailand, honoring the culinary revolution sparked by the Portuguese and the enduring flavors that continue to tantalize our taste buds. Take your time to visit this Kingdom and embrace this culinary legacy, keeping alive the traditions and flavors that have enriched Thai cuisine for generations to come.
Thanks to Austin Bush Photography for the photo reportÂ
Pamper Yourself
© Baan Reena Resort – all rights reserved
